The Emperor of Scent: A True Story of Perfume and Obsession by Chandler Burr

The Emperor of Scent: A True Story of Perfume and Obsession by Chandler Burr tells the remarkable story of Luca Turin, a renowned scientist and perfumer. Turin has devoted his life to the science of smell, an oft-overlooked but powerful sense. Drawing on science, art and his own life experiences, Turin has created a controversial scientific theory about what makes certain smells appealing. In The Emperor of Scent, Burr recounts Turin’s journey from a lab in the south of France to the heights of international perfume making.

Theories about the sense of smell have always been contentious. A group of aromatic experts, called “aroma chemists,” believed that the distinct fragrances of individual plants and flowers were a matter of chemical composition. But Turin thought differently. To him, the unique properties of any scent were rooted in the biological self. Drawing on complex mathematics, he developed his own new theory—the Vibrational Theory of Smell—that suggested a connection between molecular vibrations and the physical feelings people experience when they inhale odors.

Though widely esteemed in scientific circles, Turin’s theory was largely dismissed by the perfume industry. So he set out to prove that his hypothesis was correct. He wrote a book, The Secret of Scent, to explain the science behind his theory and how it could be applied to perfumery. It quickly became a bestseller and created a sensation within the perfume industry.

Despite his newfound celebrity status, Turin still faced considerable opposition to his views. Companies such as International Flavors and Fragrances, a leading designer of perfumes and flavors, were resistant to change. Though most acknowledged the merits of Turin’s theory, none believed that it could be used to reliably produce the best scents.

In The Emperor of Scent, Burr describes how Turin went on to prove his theory by creating some of the most successful fragrances the industry had ever seen. As Turin’s reputation grew, his ability to generate incredible fragrances stirred up controversy. Many believed his success represented a threat to the traditional methods used by aroma chemists. Turin became known as the “Emperor of Scent” by those who agreed with his theories and as the “Devil of Scent” by those who found his ideas and approaches too radical.

The Emperor of Scent also follows Turin’s journey as he rallies against the establishment, creates powerful perfumes and battles for recognition in the face of overwhelming odds. Through Burr’s meticulous reporting and Turin’s incredible story, readers gain insight into the mysterious world of smell and its impact on our lives and the world around us.

By exploring the work of Luca Turin and his responses to those who doubted him, The Emperor of Scent offers an inspiring case study of how an individual can stand against the majority and still succeed. It’s a captivating narrative of modern-day science, as well as an enlightening exploration of the power of smell.